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立体声的AC/DC爆炸，而松露在顶部的细腻串中切成薄片compressed eggplant and cured pork belly bathed in Brazilian nut milk.通向地狱的公路以淫秽的koshihikari米饭，wagyu和鳟鱼Roe的生长碗结尾。
“It’s nice to get stars, but to get them for a restaurant that plays Judas Priest, AC/DC and Led Zeppelin, that’s really nice,” cacklesAlberto Landgraf，主厨Oteque在里约热内00拉丁美洲的50家最好的餐厅列表。
This sleek, elegant restaurant is rapidly gaining visibility on the international scene, joiningD.O.M.,casa do porco和马努in putting Brazil on the food map. Landgraf’s cooking is rock’n’roll, but in a controlled way: precise, with surgical attention to detail, reflecting his German and Japanese heritage.
“ Alberto所做的是微观创造力 - 菜单具有相同的结构，但是有持续的调整和变化。那是非常阿尔贝托。他有一名运动员的思想，比其他任何事情都更能与自己竞争，总是研究，重现，完善。”JoãoGrinspumFerraz，巴西食品鉴赏家和董事Behind the Platedocumentary. “That’s what makes him the best restaurant in Brazil in my opinion.”
照片提供Oteque
虽然Otequeis not constrained by Michelin norms, Landgraf incorporates luxury ingredients into dishes in a very organic way. Foie gras-sardine brioche, sandperch sashimi in seaweed vinaigrette with caviar, wagyu, truffles.
这种折衷的混音和匹配提出了一个问题 - 巴西人足够吗？Oteque并不是公开的民俗，有Farofa和Feijoada的堆，但它确实反映了构成这个广阔国家的多方面文化。
巴西一直被库维德（Covid）打击，但你似乎做得很好？
老实说，没关系。数字正在下降，我们没有宵禁，人们正在慢慢回到正常生活。我们在7月重新开放，受到限制 - 我们只能坐在桌子上的50％，但是即使在我从未满足满足之前，我们也可以坐满，所以对我们来说，这并不是那么巨大的差异。由于某种原因，我们正在设法生存并将头保持在水面之上。
什么影响确实收到了两颗星的影响Oteque？你期待的吗？
现在说还为时过早。我认为，当国际游客回来并且人们再次旅行时，这将产生更大的影响，但这将是巨大的。不仅是因为我有2颗星，而且因为我们为像米其林这样的保守机构提供了他们的速度。我认为这就是使我们和整个食品世界感到惊讶的原因。
老实说 - 您是在第二颗星上积极工作还是不对一两个？
Somewhere in between. Of course I wanted the second star, but as long as it was on my terms. If they like what I do, with the music I play, with the service we do - very casual, no tablecloths, no waiters dressed like penguins - if Michelin finds that enough to give us two or three stars, I will gladly accept it. But if they don’t think it’s up to their standards, it’s ok as well. But I will never format my whole restaurant just to please Michelin.
Asa speaker at European Food Summit, your topic was ‘against storytelling’, about simply offering delicious food, rather than a fairytale.
是的。您知道什么，我实际上很累，无聊，没有足够的想象力来提出一些故事来告诉别人。我只是心想：让这家餐厅令人难以置信？给他们最好的食物，最好是最好的食材，那就是讲故事。美味的食物在人们感到舒适的氛围中。
我听说有人说Oteque还不够“巴西人”。当涉及美食时，“巴西人”是什么？
定义巴西非常复杂。这是一个文化融化，因此很难说巴西是什么，什么不是。在食品大会和面板中，我们试图定义什么是巴西美食，但我们还没有得出结论。我认为这是巴西正在做的事情。我是巴西人，我雇用了25名巴西人，我只从巴西供应商那里购买，我正在为巴西客户提供服务。我怎么能不是巴西餐厅？
您是日本人，一部分德语。我在您的美食中看到了精确和清晰的重点，但是您从两全其美地带来了什么？
Discipline, consistency, concentration, perfectionism is what these cultures have - to do our best whatever it takes, top quality when you talk about cars, design, Japanese minimalism - it goes so much deeper than the plate. You don’t see soy sauce, wasabi, sauerkraut. But it’s definitely there within the concepts I used to develop this place, from the acoustic walls to the discipline I have among the line cooks, and also the light, relaxed style and ambience, which reflects on the food itself.
Your food is luxurious in the best possible sense. Every truffle and caviar pearl serves a purpose. What’s the philosophy or trick behind it?
I just see them as any other ingredient, that’s it. There isn’t a single thing in the dish that you are not supposed to eat – no garnish, leaves, pieces of wood, rocks. Everything serves a purpose. When I think of truffles, caviar or foie gras I think of them in the same way I think of potato – they just happen to cost more. There are restaurants in Brazil that are not using them saying it’s not Brazilian, but then they serve Romanée-Conti. It’s hypocritical. Wine that costs 10,000 euros per bottle I can buy from France, but if I use a truffle, I’m not being Brazilian?
卡雷夫什（Crayfsh）和鱼蛋黄酱阿尔贝托·兰德格拉夫（Alberto Landgraf），照片由oteque提供
When you openedOteque在2018年，人们说“这是我们现在最好的餐厅”。很难满足期望吗？
是的，非常艰难，仍然如此。我必须去治疗师来控制自己的情绪。我的个人生活会产生影响 - 我离婚了，我经历了一些黑暗的时刻，因为承担这种责任的压力很大。当您听到人们说如何Oteque将成为巴西的第一家三星级餐厅。每天晚上在这里吃饭的30个人在这里吃饭的期望很困难，期望他们一生中最好的饭菜。现在，媒体评论，美食家评论，现在加上价格标签。很多。成功的价格与每个人都不同。您只需要找到您的东西即可。
Is it all worth it?
Up to this point, yes. People sometimes ask me what’s the secret ofOteque成功。秘密是，我试图平衡客户的满意度以及在这里工作的人们的满意度。大多数餐馆，客人都很高兴，但他们不在乎工作人员，也不在乎他们。我试图找到平衡。到目前为止，它一直在工作，因为我开始开心工作，当我看着员工时，我看到他们真的很喜欢在这里工作。也就是说，如果您在2年内问我同样的问题，我可能不会说同样的话（笑）。
亚历克斯·阿塔拉（Alex Atala）是第一位向世界展示巴西美食和巴西的厨师。他的遗产是什么？
我认为那是另一个时代。亚历克斯（Alex）有一个遗产，没人会接近。继续执行该遗产的义务并不是一个人，而是在整个一代年轻厨师身上。目前，巴西有很多不错的餐厅，没有应有的能见度。喜欢有限公司rrutela,evvai，Paulo Shin，马努… It’s a bit unfair to say that I will be the one who will carry Alex’s legacy towards the future. The biggest legacy he has given us is that every one of us can now show our face to the world. A lot of people measure the importance of a country through international visibility. I don’t agree with that. Brazil has a very strong scene. We don’t need validation of international food congresses or food critics to say our food is special. The validation comes from ourselves.
在拉丁美洲烹饪地图上，您在哪里可以看到巴西美食？
有趣的事情 -Otequeis better known in Europe and Asia than Latin America. Three reasons for that. Brazil is the only country in Latin America that doesn’t speak Spanish. Culturally, that’s a huge difference. Second reason, other countries invest a lot of money in promoting gastronomy, whereas we’ve never had support to reach that kind of international visibility. And last, when you talk about Peru, it’s Lima. When you talk about Colombia, is Bogota; Argentina, Buenos Aires. But when you talk about Brazil, it’s a big country with a lot of different cities. To go to D.O.M., you have to fly to Sao Paulo, then fly here to eat atOteque，然后乘飞机去库里蒂巴马努。您做了所有这一切，但是您仍然需要旅行更多才能认识巴西。
